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home·artworks·And the Sun Peeped O'er Yon Southland Hills
And the Sun Peeped O'er Yon Southland Hills by Joseph Farquharson

plate no. 1618

And the Sun Peeped O'er Yon Southland Hills

Joseph Farquharson

oilRealismlandscapelandscapesnowhillssheeptreessky

what to study here

It shows how warm-to-cool snow color and soft edges can carry light, depth and mist with very little value contrast.

Study how this landscape builds a winter morning from a narrow value range and shifting temperature. The vision analysis puts the lightest lights in the sunlit foreground snow at lower left and the darkest darks in the conifers. Between those poles the snow is never pure white. It moves from cream in the light to mauve-pink in shadow, so form and distance come from color temperature more than from contrast. Squint and you get three value groups: lit foreground and mid-distance hills, shadowed and distant hills, and the tree masses. The eye enters at the sunlit peak on the left, runs down the rolling hills, and settles on the cream sheep in the lower portion. Dark trees on the right frame the scene. Nearly all edges are soft and the distant hills feather into one another, which gives the misty air. The sheep and nearer trees are slightly crisper, so they sit forward without looking pasted on. Check how little the painter relies on hard lines to describe terrain.

key decision

The painter kept the snow tinted, cream in sunlight and mauve-pink in shadow, and held values in a narrow range. Form and atmosphere come from temperature shifts and soft edges, with the dark conifers as the only strong accent.

recreation guide

Joseph Farquharson’s 'And the Sun Peeped O'er Yon Southland Hills' is a landscape painting executed in oil, characterized by a realist style that seeks to express the vitality of nature rather than merely deceive the eye with photographic illusion (Source 4). The work likely employs a methodical approach to color and light, consistent with the practices of old masters who utilized glazing and scumbling to achieve depth and atmospheric effects (Source 1). The composition adheres to traditional landscape conventions, organizing natural elements such as hills and sky into a coherent structure where weather and light play significant roles (Source 2). Farquharson’s approach emphasizes the 'painted symbols' of nature, ensuring the viewer remains aware of the medium’s material qualities while appreciating the emotional resonance of the scene (Source 4).

estimated time

20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions, allowing for drying times between glaze layers

materials

5 items

steps

5 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paints (Black, Ultramarine, White)For the initial monochrome underpainting (grisaille) as per Reynolds' method cited in sourcesStandard tube oils: Ivory Black, Ultramarine Blue, Titanium White
Oil of Copavia (or modern substitute like Odorless Mineral Spirits + Linseed Oil)Medium for the first and second paintings to ensure transparency and flowGalkyd or a mix of Linseed Oil and Odorless Mineral Spirits
Red and Yellow pigmentsFor glazing and scumbling to introduce color tones after the monochrome base is dryCadmium Red, Cadmium Yellow, or Alizarin Crimson and Yellow Ochre
VarnishMixed with oil for later glazing stages to gain mastery over transparent coatsDammar Varnish or Synthetic Resin Varnish
Canvas or PanelSupport for the oil paintingPrimed linen or cotton canvas

preparation

surface prep

The surface should be prepared to accept oil paint, likely with a traditional ground. While specific priming details for this exact work are not in the sources, the practice of oil painting implies a stable, non-absorbent surface to allow for the glazing techniques described (Source 1).

underdrawing

The sources do not explicitly describe Farquharson’s underdrawing method for this specific piece. However, general advice suggests that a sound craftsman must master the 'alphabet of our art' before copying or creating (Source 8). It is likely that a loose, structural underdrawing was used to establish the 'coherent composition' of the landscape elements (Source 2), but specific lines are not detailed in the provided texts.

underpainting

The process likely begins with a monochrome underpainting (grisaille). The artist mentally extracts red and yellow colors, painting the scene in black, ultramarine, and white to establish values and forms without color distraction (Source 1). This aligns with Sir Joshua Reynolds’ method of using oil of copavia with black, ultramarine, and white for the first and second paintings (Source 1).

color palette

Black, Ultramarine, White

Pure pigments

Initial monochrome underpainting (grisaille) to establish form and value

Red Tones

Transparent red glazes

Glazing over the dry grisaille to introduce warmth and local color, particularly in sunlit areas

Yellow Tones

Transparent yellow glazes

Glazing to capture the light of the sun peeping over the hills, mimicking the effect of light in nature

Grey/Blue Tones

Scumbled semi-opaque mixtures

Creating coldness and atmospheric depth in shadows or distant hills, utilizing the 'grey bloom' effect

composition

The composition organizes natural scenery—specifically hills and sky—into a coherent structure (Source 2). The sky is almost always included, and weather/light is an element of the composition (Source 2). The arrangement likely uses line and shape to guide the eye through the landscape, emphasizing the 'wide view' typical of the genre (Source 2). Specific details of the hill shapes or sun position are not described in the sources, so the composition is treated as a general landscape structure.

step by step

underpainting→first pass→refining→finishing→varnishing

underpainting

  1. step 01

    Prepare the grisaille using black, ultramarine, and white with oil of copavia (or substitute). Paint the entire scene focusing on value and form, mentally excluding red and yellow hues.

    Tip — Ensure the grisaille is quite dry before proceeding to avoid muddying the subsequent glazes.

    Monochrome Underpainting

first pass

  1. step 02

    Apply transparent glazes of red and yellow tones over the dry grisaille. Use oil as the medium initially.

    Tip — Think of this as tinting an engraving with watercolors; the underlying painting should show through.

    Glazing

refining

  1. step 03

    Use scumbling (semi-opaque painting) to adjust tones, particularly over darker grounds to create coldness or a 'grey bloom' in shadows or atmospheric areas.

    Tip — Watch for the underlying painting making itself felt through the semi-opaque layer.

    Scumbling

finishing

  1. step 04

    Refine color harmonies by considering simultaneous contrast. Ensure that colors inherent to the landscape (sky, hills) are balanced with chosen accents.

    Tip — Be aware that the eye may see colors inaccurately due to mixed contrast; step back frequently to assess true tones.

    Color Harmony

varnishing

  1. step 05

    If further mastery is needed, mix varnish with oil for final glazing touches to enhance depth and luminosity.

    Tip — Ensure previous layers are fully dry to prevent cracking or lifting.

    Varnish Glazing

critical techniques

Glazing

Applying a transparent coat of color over a dry underpainting to build up luminosity and depth, as practiced by old masters and described in Reynolds' method.

Scumbling

Using semi-opaque paint over a darker ground to create coldness or atmospheric effects, allowing the underlying layer to influence the final appearance.

Simultaneous Contrast

Adjusting colors based on how adjacent hues affect each other, ensuring that the inherent colors of the landscape are harmonized correctly.

common pitfalls

  • →Attempting to deceive the eye completely into thinking it is looking at real nature, rather than expressing feeling through painted symbols (Source 4).
  • →Over-modeling or becoming too tied to outlines, which can lead to a 'smallness' in the work (Source 8).
  • →Ignoring the drying time of the grisaille, which can ruin the transparency of subsequent glazes (Source 1).
  • →Failing to account for simultaneous contrast, leading to inaccurate color perception and disharmony (Source 6).

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific visual details of the hills, sun position, or atmospheric conditions in 'And the Sun Peeped O'er Yon Southland Hills' are not described in the sources.
  • ·Farquharson’s specific brushwork or stroke style is not detailed; the guide relies on general oil painting techniques from the provided texts.
  • ·The exact year of creation is not available, so period-specific material nuances are inferred from general 'old master' practices cited in the sources.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • COLOURING A MONOCHROME — applied to Underpainting, glazing, and scumbling techniques
    • ON COPYING — applied to General craftsmanship and avoiding pitfalls
  • The Practice and Science of Drawing↗

    • XX MATERIALS — applied to Philosophy of medium and expression
  • Laws of Contrast of Colour↗

    • 315-324 — applied to Color harmony and contrast adjustments

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: Landscape painting↗

    • Landscape painting — part 1 — applied to Composition and genre conventions

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

Morning light breaks through the upper left, warming the distant hills with golden tones while the foreground snow catches cool purplish shadows. The composition rolls down through three distinct zones: luminous background hills, middle-distance undulating terrain dotted with dark conifers and golden deciduous trees, and the foreground slope where cream-colored sheep graze on lit snow. Your eye enters at the sunlit peak on the left and follows the natural path of the rolling hills down and across, with the sheep anchoring the lower portion and the dark trees on the right providing a compositional frame.

value structure

The lightest lights are the foreground snow in direct sunlight (lower left), while the darkest darks are the coniferous trees. The snow itself is never pure white—it shifts from cream in bright areas to mauve-pink in shadow, creating a narrow but sophisticated range. When you squint, three value groups emerge: the lit foreground and mid-distance hills (light to mid), the shadowed sides of hills and distant hills (mid to soft mid), and the tree masses (dark). This restraint in value contrast is what creates the atmospheric, misty quality.

observed palette and mixes

  • #fae9d0

    Titanium white + small touch of yellow ochre

    Brightest snow in foreground lower left, peak-lit slopes

  • #f5ddc0

    Titanium white + yellow ochre + touch of alizarin

    Golden sunrise light on upper left hills and sky

  • #e7cbc0

    Titanium white + yellow ochre + alizarin + ultramarine (cool grayed pink)

    Mid-distance snow-covered hillsides and sunlit slopes

  • #d7b5b4

    Titanium white + alizarin + ultramarine + touch of yellow ochre

    Shadow sides of hills, distant rolling terrain

  • #c9a9b1

    Titanium white + ultramarine + alizarin + burnt umber

    Atmospheric shadows and cooler upper sky areas

  • #735d5c

    Burnt umber + ultramarine + alizarin (warm dark)

    Tree trunks, dark coniferous foliage, sheep heads and dark wool

edges and brushwork

Nearly all edges are soft and blended, creating the misty atmospheric quality. The distant hills feather into each other with barely perceptible boundaries; use dry-brush scumbling or soft blending to avoid hard lines. Foreground sheep have slightly crisper edges than the background trees but still feel integrated into the landscape. Directional brushwork follows hill contours and tree forms without becoming obvious—the technique should feel invisible, serving only to suggest form through gentle value and color shifts.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Toned ground and composition

    Prepare a warm-toned canvas (thin wash of yellow ochre + burnt sienna). Lightly map the horizon line at roughly the upper third, then sketch the major hill masses with charcoal or thin burnt umber. Identify the light source (upper left) and indicate which slopes catch light versus shadow. Keep proportions loose but accurate to the rolling rhythm of the terrain.

  2. 02

    Sky and atmospheric color

    Block in the sky with a gradient: start warm and golden in the upper left (white + yellow ochre + touch of alizarin), cool it progressively toward the right and top (introducing ultramarine + alizarin to create mauve), keeping everything soft and atmospheric. The sky should suggest early morning mist—avoid crisp details.

  3. 03

    Distant hills and atmospheric perspective

    Paint the farthest hills with cooler, paler tones (white + ultramarine + small alizarin) to establish depth. These should be nearly colorless and soft-edged, almost melting into the sky. Use thin paint and avoid any strong contrasts in the far distance.

  4. 04

    Mid-distance rolling terrain

    Establish the sunlit and shadowed sides of the main hill masses. Sunlit slopes use warmer creams and pale pinks (white + yellow ochre + touch of alizarin), while shadow sides use cooler mauve (white + alizarin + ultramarine). Pay attention to the direction of light from the upper left—slopes facing that direction are warm and bright, opposite sides are cool and muted. Keep edges soft and let hills blend into each other.

  5. 05

    Tree masses and focal anchors

    Place the dark trees (burnt umber + ultramarine + alizarin) with careful attention to atmospheric perspective: distant scattered trees on the middle hills are hazier and less saturated, while the prominent dark trees on the right foreground are darker and more defined. Use directional brushwork to suggest foliage form. The dark evergreens on the left middle distance should be crisp enough to read against the snow but not harsh.

  6. 06

    Foreground sheep and snow texture

    Paint the sheep with golden-cream bodies (white + yellow ochre + small touch of alizarin) and dark heads/shadows (burnt umber + ultramarine). Position them at various depths to create recession. Add subtle texture to the foreground snow with dappled brushwork and gentle shadows (using the mauve and cool gray mixes), but avoid making it busy—the softness is more important than specificity.

  7. 07

    Refine edges and atmospheric unity

    Soften edges throughout by dry-brushing or scumbling where sharp transitions occurred. Ensure distant elements are hazier than foreground elements. Check that the light source direction is consistent across all slopes and shadows. Add final glints of light to the brightest snow where the morning sun strikes directly.

  8. 08

    Color harmony and final adjustments

    Step back and assess overall warmth. The painting should feel cohesive—not patchy or with disconnected color islands. Adjust any shadow areas that read too purple or blue by warming them slightly with a touch of burnt umber or yellow ochre. Ensure the foreground feels like it recedes properly by checking value relationships. Make any final refinements to the sky gradient.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Painting snow as pure white—it's tinted warm and cool throughout. Mix every snow color with at least two colors to maintain chromatic unity.
  • Making the hills too flat or reading them as separate shapes rather than continuous rolling terrain. The beauty is in the soft, undulating transitions between sunlit and shadowed slopes.
  • Rendering the sheep too dark or too detailed—their golden wool reads as a light, soft shape; details matter less than correct value and warmth of color.
  • Overworking or hardening edges. Resist the urge to define boundaries; this painting's power comes from atmospheric softness. If edges feel too crisp, soften them with dry brush or glazing.
  • Forgetting atmospheric perspective on distant trees and hills. Haziness increases with distance—cooler, paler, softer—so distant scattered trees should be much less defined than foreground ones.
  • Getting the light direction inconsistent. Double-check that all shadows fall away from the upper-left light source and that slope orientations match their value and color (facing light = warm and bright; facing away = cool and muted).

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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