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home·artworks·Countryside at summer
Countryside at summer by David Burliuk

plate no. 5371

Countryside at summer

David Burliuk, 1946

oilRealismlandscapetreeslakehouseskyfoliagefence

what to study here

It shows how one dark vertical, a three-tier value plan, and varied edge handling organize a mostly horizontal summer landscape.

Start with the structure of the picture. The observed analysis describes a large dark-trunked tree on the right edge acting as a vertical anchor against an otherwise horizontal scene of meadow, water, and a small house group in the middle distance. The eye enters at the foreground fence, travels left along the bright water and house, then returns to the tree. Check how much work that one vertical does. Then study the value structure: very dark trunks and shadows, a bright band of sky and water reflections, and a warm mid-value green field. Squint and the darks read as punctuation against the light meadow and sky. Finally, look at the edges. Sky is soft and diffused, foliage is broken dabs and flecks, trunks have hard confident edges, and water gets horizontal marks. Foreground brushwork is more active than the distance, which helps depth. Copy these edge decisions before you copy any color.

key decision

The painter placed a massive dark-trunked tree at the right edge as a vertical anchor, giving a strong dark against bright sky and meadow and preventing the horizontal composition from going slack.

recreation guide

David Burliuk’s 'Countryside at summer' (1946) represents a late-career return to landscape painting, distinct from his earlier, more aggressive Futurist and Neo-Primitivist works. While Burliuk is historically recognized as a 'father of Russian Futurism' and associated with avant-garde scandal and abstraction (Source 4, Source 6), this specific work is classified under Realism. This suggests a stylistic shift toward depicting natural scenery—such as trees, forests, or wide views—with a coherent composition, consistent with general landscape painting traditions (Source 3). The artwork likely reflects Burliuk’s lifelong dream of portraying his adopted country, the United States, or his native Ukraine, as he frequently set images of his homeland to canvas in his later years (Source 6).

estimated time

20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions

materials

6 items

steps

6 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paints (artist grade)Primary medium for the painting—
Linseed oilMedium to thin paint and adjust drying time; essential for 'fat over lean' layeringStand oil or refined linseed oil
Mineral spirits or turpentineSolvent for thinning initial layers and cleaning brushesOdorless mineral spirits (OMS)
CharcoalInitial sketching and underdrawing on the canvas—
Paintbrushes and palette knivesApplication of paint; knives can be used for scraping or impasto—
CanvasSupport surfaceLinen or cotton canvas primed with gesso

preparation

surface prep

The canvas should be prepared with a ground suitable for oil painting. While specific priming methods for this 1946 work are not detailed in the sources, traditional oil painting practice involves ensuring the surface is stable to prevent cracking. Burliuk’s training in Munich and Odessa (Source 6) would have instilled standard academic preparation techniques.

underdrawing

Begin by sketching the subject onto the canvas using charcoal or thinned paint (Source 1). This allows for corrections before paint is applied, as charcoal offers little resistance to a brush and can be easily adjusted (Source 5). Ensure the composition includes a sky and weather elements, as these are almost always included in landscape views (Source 3).

underpainting

Apply an initial layer of paint using a lean mixture (more solvent, less oil) to establish the tonal values. This aligns with the 'fat over lean' rule, where the first layers contain less oil to ensure proper drying and prevent cracking in subsequent layers (Source 1). A monochrome underpainting (grisaille) using earth tones like raw umber and white can help establish form before color is introduced (Source 5).

color palette

Earth tones (Raw Umber, White)

Raw umber, Titanium White

Initial underpainting and establishing values (Source 5)

Greens and Browns

Viridian, Yellow Ochre, Burnt Umber

Depicting trees, forests, and countryside elements typical of landscape painting (Source 3)

Blues and Whites

Ultramarine, Titanium White

Sky and weather elements, which are essential components of landscape composition (Source 3)

Reds and Yellows

Cadmium Red, Cadmium Yellow

Glazing and scumbling to add warmth and depth, particularly in summer foliage (Source 2)

composition

The composition should arrange natural scenery elements—such as mountains, valleys, rivers, trees, or forests—into a coherent whole (Source 3). As a realist landscape, it likely depicts a wide view with the sky included as a significant element (Source 3). Burliuk’s later works often focused on the landscape of his adopted country, the United States, or his native Ukraine, suggesting a personal, perhaps topographical, connection to the scene (Source 6).

step by step

underdrawing→underpainting→first pass→refining→finishing→varnishing

underdrawing

  1. step 01

    Sketch the landscape composition onto the canvas using charcoal. Focus on the placement of trees, sky, and any foreground elements.

    Tip — Make corrections now, as charcoal is easily adjustable. Do not proceed to paint with obvious drawing errors (Source 5).

    Charcoal sketching

underpainting

  1. step 02

    Apply a thin, lean wash of raw umber and white to establish the basic light and shadow values of the landscape.

    Tip — Use turpentine to thin the paint. This layer should be lean (low oil content) to adhere properly to the ground (Source 1, Source 5).

    Grisaille/Underpainting

first pass

  1. step 03

    Begin applying local colors for the sky and distant landscape elements. Use a moderate amount of oil.

    Tip — Ensure this layer has slightly more oil than the underpainting to follow the 'fat over lean' rule (Source 1).

    Direct painting

refining

  1. step 04

    Build up the mid-ground and foreground foliage. Use palette knives or brushes to create texture in the trees and grass.

    Tip — Oil paint remains wet longer than other media, allowing you to adjust color and texture. You can scrape off paint with a knife if needed (Source 1).

    Impasto/Texture application

finishing

  1. step 05

    Apply glazes of red and yellow tones to warm up the summer light and add depth to the foliage. Use scumbling for semi-opaque highlights.

    Tip — Glazing involves a transparent coat of color; scumbling is semi-opaque. These techniques help integrate the colors and create luminosity (Source 2).

    Glazing and Scumbling

varnishing

  1. step 06

    Allow the painting to dry completely (up to two weeks) before applying a final varnish if desired.

    Tip — Oil paint dries by oxidation, not evaporation. Ensure each layer is dry to the touch before applying the next (Source 1).

    Drying and Varnishing

critical techniques

Fat over Lean

Each additional layer of paint must contain more oil than the layer below to prevent cracking and peeling. This is a fundamental rule of oil painting application (Source 1).

Glazing and Scumbling

Used to add color depth and luminosity. Glazing applies transparent color over dry paint, while scumbling applies semi-opaque paint to allow the underlayer to show through. This method was practiced by old masters and can be used to tint the landscape (Source 2).

Charcoal Underdrawing

Used to establish the composition and correct errors before paint is applied. Charcoal is preferred for its adjustability (Source 5).

common pitfalls

  • →Applying lean layers over fat layers, which can cause the paint to crack and peel (Source 1).
  • →Making major compositional corrections after paint has been applied, which can ruin the lucidity of the painting. Corrections should be made in the charcoal stage (Source 5).
  • →Ignoring the drying time of oil paint, which dries by oxidation and can take up to two weeks to be fully dry to the touch (Source 1).

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific visual details of 'Countryside at summer' (e.g., exact tree types, presence of figures, specific color scheme) are not described in the provided sources.
  • ·Burliuk’s specific palette for this 1946 work is not documented; the palette is inferred from general landscape painting practices and his realist style.
  • ·The exact support material (canvas vs. board) is not specified, though canvas is standard for oil landscapes.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • COLOURING A MONOCHROME — applied to Glazing and scumbling techniques for adding color depth
    • PAINTING FROM LIFE — applied to Underdrawing with charcoal and initial value studies

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: Oil painting↗

    • part 2 — applied to Underpainting, layering rules (fat over lean), drying times, and tool usage
  • Wikipedia: Landscape painting↗

    • part 1 — applied to Composition elements (sky, weather, natural scenery) and genre conventions
  • Wikipedia bio — David Burliuk↗

    • part 1 — applied to Artist background and stylistic context (Futurism vs. later Realism)
    • part 2 — applied to Artist’s later life focus on landscape and homeland themes

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

Bright overhead summer light floods from the upper left, illuminating a lush green meadow in the foreground and a pale blue sky dotted with white clouds. The composition is anchored by a massive dark-trunked tree on the right edge, which frames the view toward a small rural house complex in the middle distance beside a blue water body. The eye enters through the foreground fence line, moves leftward along the bright water and house, then circles back to the dominant tree—a strong vertical anchor that prevents the composition from feeling too horizontal.

value structure

The value structure rests on three distinct tiers: very dark tree trunks and foliage shadows at the extremes, a bright band of sky and water reflections in the upper-middle zone, and a warm mid-value green field occupying much of the foreground. When squinted, the darks (trunks, shadows) read as distinct punctuation marks against the bright meadow and sky. The water catches reflected light from the sky, creating local highlights that echo the sky's luminosity.

observed palette and mixes

  • #4f6d56

    Ultramarine blue + viridian + touch of alizarin

    Deep shadow foliage on trees and darker green masses; the shadowed undersides of the canopies

  • #a4cb9e

    Cadmium yellow medium + viridian + titanium white

    Sunlit grass in meadow and lighter warm greens in foliage highlights throughout

  • #727663

    Burnt sienna + ultramarine blue

    Tree trunks, especially the dominant right tree and smaller left trees; fence posts and shadows

  • #d3d9d8

    Titanium white + touch of ultramarine + hint of yellow ochre

    Sky and clouds; water reflections and highlights; bright meadow accents

  • #8b9e8c

    Viridian + ultramarine + white + slight yellow ochre

    Distant cool-toned foliage and tree masses receding into space; mid-value greens in background trees

  • #3f403b

    Ultramarine blue + burnt sienna + touch of viridian

    Darkest accents in tree canopies, fence line definition, and deepest shadow areas

edges and brushwork

Edges vary purposefully: sky blends soft and diffused, foliage masses show broken, dabbed strokes that suggest leafy texture rather than define exact forms, and tree trunks assert hard confident edges. Brushwork remains visible throughout—horizontal directional marks in the water suggest its reflective surface, while foliage is built with layered dabs and flecks of color that create visual texture and energy. The foreground fence and grass display more active, visible brushwork than distant elements, reinforcing depth through technique.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Establish the value foundation

    Block in the major value zones using thin washes: pale sky across the upper third, mid-value greens for the meadow, and darker mid-values for the water and distant tree masses. Use a large flat brush. Don't worry about detail—think in three to four value zones. The goal is to establish that the sky and water are your lightness anchors while trees and shadows provide contrast.

  2. 02

    Paint the sky and clouds

    Work the pale blue sky with white-dominant mixtures of ultramarine and white. While still wet, drop in warmer whites and pale yellows on the cloud masses in the upper-left area. Keep edges soft by blending. The sky should feel luminous and slightly warm in spots—this early warmth will make later shadows feel cooler by comparison.

  3. 03

    Define the water and distant landscape

    Establish the blue water body with horizontal strokes, using ultramarine and white with touches of viridian. Place reflected sky highlights in pale blue-white. Behind the water, block in the distant tree line and house forms using cooler, lighter greens and muted warm tones. Keep this distant zone simpler and less detailed than the foreground—atmospheric perspective means fewer leaves defined and softer edges here.

  4. 04

    Paint the dominant tree structure

    Attack the large right-edge tree: lay down its dark trunk using a mix of burnt sienna and ultramarine, with enough body to feel solid. Build its canopy with layered greens—start with darker cool greens (ultramarine + viridian) for shadow areas, then layer warmer mid-value yellowy-greens (cadmium yellow + viridian + white) into sunlit patches. The foliage should feel three-dimensional, with suggested depth; use dabs and flecks rather than smooth coverage. Define its silhouette against the sky with confident edge work.

  5. 05

    Build foreground foliage and fence

    Work the fence and shrub masses in the foreground using darker greens and warm mid-values. The fence should read as a structural line but not be harsh—use ultramarine + burnt sienna for fence shadows and definition. Add warm yellowy-greens in the illuminated grass and foliage. Notice the fence recedes slightly; keep your strokes directional to suggest this. Layer greens over one another to build richness rather than mixing flat colors.

  6. 06

    Develop left-side trees and foliage

    Paint the smaller, more delicate trees on the left with thinner, more linear trunk work and lighter, airier foliage masses. These trees should feel less solid than the right anchor tree. Use similar greens but apply them more sparingly. The left edge should feel open and breathable compared to the dense right side. Vary your greens here between cool shadowed tones and warm sunlit yellows.

  7. 07

    Refine middle values and add visual texture

    Step back and refine the meadow with varied warm greens and touches of yellow ochre. Add broken texture strokes to suggest grass and wildflower movement. Punch up any dark accents where branches overlap or where tree shadows fall. Add highlights to foliage using pale yellow-green and white, keeping these marks fresh and directional rather than blended. The painting should feel energetic with visible brushwork.

  8. 08

    Final passes and atmospheric adjustment

    Ensure the distant hills and tree line recede by checking they're lighter and cooler than foreground elements. Refine the house structure with warm shadows and suggest small details like windows or chimney if visible, but keep it secondary to the landscape. Review the overall value structure by stepping back—dark trunks should pop against light sky and meadow. Add any final glaze or scumble passes to unify areas that feel disconnected, working thin to avoid muddying.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Tree greens muddy easily—mix them freshly on the palette before each application. Avoid pre-mixing a large quantity of 'tree green'; instead, build variation by mixing ultramarine + viridian in slightly different proportions, adding white to some, yellow to others. This variety is what makes the foliage feel alive.
  • Atmospheric perspective is critical here but often neglected. Distant foliage must be noticeably lighter and cooler (more blue) than foreground trees. The foreground should feel warm and solid; the background should feel airy and recessed. If the background reads as dark as the foreground, the landscape feels flat.
  • The dominant tree's structure can look wooden or unconvincing if painted too uniformly. Build its form with the brush—suggest branches extending outward with directional marks; don't just blob on green. The trunk must feel as if it extends into the canopy, not disappear under it.
  • The water can easily become a flat blue stripe. Remember it reflects the sky's lights and the landscape's colors. Use horizontal strokes to suggest its surface; add white and pale blue accents to show reflections of bright sky areas. Keep it simpler than the foreground but not inert.
  • Overworking the fence and foreground detail defeats the composition. The fence is a compositional device and value anchor, not a hero element—define its line but leave areas loosely suggested. Similarly, the meadow gains power from texture and color variety, not laboriously rendered individual grasses.

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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