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home·artworks·Street in Torun
Street in Torun by Petros Malayan

plate no. 6382

Street in Torun

Petros Malayan, 1972

oilExpressionismcityscapecityscapebuildingstowersstreetarchitectureurban

what to study here

It shows how edge softness, a light central path and a narrow value range can build convincing recession without strong contrast.

Study how a compressed value range can still carry deep space. The street is the lightest path, running down the center between dark building masses, so a squint test reads as a pale corridor with dark flanks. Light comes from above left: the left-facing walls and sky are lightest, while the right-side buildings hold the darkest values in roof shadows, window openings and recesses. Most of the canvas sits in the mid-values. Depth comes from edge control rather than contrast. Foreground buildings have fairly crisp edges that soften toward the towers, which blur into hazy sky. Look at the brushwork too. Strokes follow the architecture, horizontal and vertical, and the weathered walls show dragged dry-brush texture. Visible wash marks remain, with no slick blending. Copy the palette relationships, not just the drawing: the shadows lean toward blue-greens and the warmer notes sit low on the right-side walls. Check how restrained the darks are, since they stay readable and connected to the lit side.

key decision

The painter kept the street as the lightest value between dark flanking buildings, then softened edges progressively toward the distant towers. Depth comes from value and edge quality rather than strong contrast.

recreation guide

Street in Torun (1972) by Petros Malayan is an Expressionist cityscape executed in oil. As a cityscape, it falls under the broader tradition of landscape painting, which includes urban environments and hardscapes such as streets and sidewalks (Source 6). The work likely employs the expressive potential of oil paint, utilizing the medium’s capacity for texture and value manipulation to convey the atmosphere of the street scene. While specific visual details of the buildings or figures are not described in the provided sources, the genre implies a focus on the organization of urban space, where the composition serves to guide the viewer’s eye through the architectural elements and atmospheric conditions (Source 4, Source 6).

estimated time

15-25 hours over 4-6 sessions

materials

6 items

steps

6 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paints (pigment + drying oil)Primary medium for the painting—
Linseed oilGeneral purpose drying oil for mixing paint and glazing—
Safflower or Poppyseed oilFor lighter colors like white to prevent yellowing—
Canvas or linen supportSurface for painting—
Gesso or groundPreparation of the surface—
BrushesApplication of paint—

preparation

surface prep

The surface should be prepared with a ground suitable for oil painting. While the specific ground used by Malayan is not detailed, standard practice involves priming the canvas or linen to create a stable surface for the oil layers (Source 3).

underdrawing

The sources do not specify Malayan’s underdrawing technique. In general oil painting practice, an underdrawing may be used to establish the composition, but it is often obscured by subsequent layers. If the artist worked wet-on-wet or with heavy impasto, the underdrawing might be minimal or non-existent.

underpainting

A grisaille (monochrome underpainting) is a traditional technique that can be employed to establish values before applying color. This involves painting the composition in neutral tones, mentally extracting red and yellow colors to focus on form and light (Source 1). This method allows for subsequent glazing and scumbling of transparent and semi-opaque colors.

color palette

Neutral Grays/Browns

Black, Ultramarine, White, Earth tones

Underpainting (grisaille) to establish values

Reds and Yellows

Transparent red and yellow pigments

Glazing and scumbling over the dry grisaille to introduce color

Whites

Lead white (historical) or Titanium Zinc (modern)

Highlights and lightening colors; note that lighter colors may use safflower or poppyseed oil to reduce yellowing (Source 3)

composition

As a cityscape, the composition likely organizes urban elements such as buildings and streets. General compositional principles suggest avoiding exact bisections of the picture space and positioning the horizon line to emphasize either the sky or the ground, depending on the desired focus (Source 8). The arrangement should guide the viewer’s eye through the scene, creating a center of interest and balancing detailed areas with 'rest' areas (Source 8).

step by step

underdrawing→underpainting→first pass→refining→finishing

underdrawing

  1. step 01

    Sketch the basic composition of the street scene, focusing on the placement of buildings and the horizon line.

    Tip — Avoid placing the horizon line exactly in the center; position it to emphasize the sky or the street as desired (Source 8).

    Compositional planning

underpainting

  1. step 02

    Create a grisaille underpainting using neutral tones (e.g., black, ultramarine, white) to establish the values and forms of the scene.

    Tip — Mentally extract red and yellow colors to focus on the underlying structure and light (Source 1).

    Grisaille

first pass

  1. step 03

    Allow the grisaille to dry completely before proceeding.

    Tip — Ensure the underpainting is dry to prevent mixing with subsequent glazes.

    Drying

refining

  1. step 04

    Apply transparent glazes of red and yellow tones over the grisaille using oil as a medium.

    Tip — Glazing involves applying a transparent coat of color, similar to tinting an engraving with watercolors (Source 1).

    Glazing

  2. step 05

    Use scumbling to apply semi-opaque paint over darker areas to create coldness or gray blooms.

    Tip — Scumbling allows the underlying painting to show through, creating complex tonal effects (Source 1).

    Scumbling

finishing

  1. step 06

    Adjust colors and values as needed, being mindful of hue shifts when lightening or darkening colors.

    Tip — When lightening reds or oranges with white, add a small amount of an adjacent color (e.g., orange) to correct hue shifts toward blue (Source 2).

    Color mixing

critical techniques

Glazing

Applying transparent coats of color over a dry underpainting to build up luminosity and depth. This technique was commonly used by old masters and involves using oil or varnish mixed with oil as a medium (Source 1).

Scumbling

Applying semi-opaque paint over a darker ground to create coldness or gray blooms. This technique allows the underlying layers to influence the final appearance (Source 1).

Color Mixing

Adjusting brightness and hue by mixing with white, black, or complementary colors. Care must be taken to avoid unwanted hue shifts, such as reds shifting toward blue when lightened with white (Source 2).

common pitfalls

  • →Adding black to darken colors can cause hue shifts, particularly in yellows, oranges, and reds, which may shift toward greenish or bluish tones (Source 2).
  • →Lightening reds and oranges with white can cause a shift toward blue; this can be corrected by adding a small amount of an adjacent color (Source 2).
  • →Using linseed oil for white pigments may lead to yellowing over time; safflower or poppyseed oil is preferred for lighter colors (Source 3).
  • →Placing the horizon line exactly in the center can create a static composition; it should be positioned to emphasize either the sky or the ground (Source 8).

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific visual details of the painting (e.g., building styles, presence of figures, weather conditions) are not described in the sources.
  • ·Petros Malayan’s specific palette and brushwork techniques are not detailed in the provided sources.
  • ·The exact composition and layout of 'Street in Torun' are not described, so general compositional principles are applied instead.
  • ·The specific drying time and layering sequence for this particular artwork are not known.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • COLOURING A MONOCHROME — applied to Underpainting (grisaille), glazing, and scumbling techniques

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: Color theory↗

    • Color theory — part 6 — applied to Color mixing and avoiding hue shifts
  • Wikipedia: Oil painting↗

    • Oil painting — part 4 — applied to Materials and drying oils
  • Wikipedia: Composition (visual arts)↗

    • Composition (visual arts) — part 6 — applied to Compositional principles for cityscapes
  • Wikipedia: Landscape painting↗

    • Landscape painting — part 13 — applied to Definition of cityscape and urban landscape

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

A narrow medieval street recedes sharply into the distance, flanked by tall weathered buildings with prominent peaked roofs. Light comes from above-left, illuminating the left-facing walls and sky while casting deep shadows on the right-side buildings and beneath the eaves. The eye travels down the street's center line toward the distant towers. Atmospheric haze softens the far buildings, creating a strong sense of depth through value and edge quality.

value structure

The darkest values cluster in the roof shadows, window openings, and deep recesses on the right side of the street. Mid-values dominate—the building walls, street surface, and overcast sky occupy most of the value range. Lightest values appear on the left-facing walls and sky highlights. When squinting, the composition reads as a light central street corridor flanked by dark building masses that recede and fade.

observed palette and mixes

  • #35382e

    Raw Sienna + Prussian Blue (heavy blue)

    Rooflines and deep shadow areas on buildings

  • #454f44

    Prussian Blue + Burnt Umber + touch of black

    Darkest shadows: window openings, roof overhangs, right building recesses

  • #575542

    Raw Sienna + Ultramarine + touch of Alizarin

    Warm shadow areas on the right-side building, lower wall zones

  • #626552

    Yellow Ochre + Prussian Blue

    Mid-shadow areas on building walls, creating atmospheric depth

  • #6f7560

    Yellow Ochre + Ultramarine Blue (balanced)

    Street surface, lighter building wall faces on left, midtone sky areas

  • #7f856d

    Buff Titanium + light Prussian Blue wash

    Lightest building surfaces catching light, pale sky zones

edges and brushwork

Foreground buildings have relatively crisp edges that soften progressively toward the background. The rooflines and building silhouettes in the distance blur into the hazy sky. Brushwork is visible as horizontal and vertical strokes following the architecture; the weathered walls show dragged, dry-brush texture suggesting age and decay. No slick blending—the paint preserves visible wash marks that enhance the atmospheric, reportage quality.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Establish the perspective structure

    Lightly sketch the street receding toward the center vanishing point, establishing the left and right building walls as parallel lines that converge. Mark the rooflines' peaks and the major tower shapes in the distance. The street should taper dramatically toward the back—this is the backbone of the entire composition and must be accurate.

  2. 02

    Lay the sky and atmospheric wash

    Drop a pale, cool gray wash across the entire sky and upper background, using mostly #7f856d mixed lighter with water. Keep it uniform and slightly warmer in the center where it meets the far buildings. This establishes the overcast atmosphere and light key for the whole piece.

  3. 03

    Block in the major building masses

    Using #6f7560 and #626552, establish the large light-facing (left) walls and mid-value shadows. Lay these in broad strokes following the building planes. Don't worry about windows or details yet—focus on the simple volumetric form. Let the left walls stay relatively light; the right walls should be noticeably darker.

  4. 04

    Define the street surface

    Block in the receding street using #6f7560 as the base. The street should remain lighter than the surrounding shadow areas so it reads as the path of light. Keep the edges soft where the street meets the building shadows—avoid hard lines.

  5. 05

    Introduce warm tones and darken shadows

    On the right-side buildings, introduce #575542 in the shadowed lower portions and under eaves, suggesting weathering and warmth in the decay. Use #35382e to darken the rooflines and create deep shadows. The darkest values (#454f44) go into window openings and the deepest recesses where light cannot reach. These warm and cool contrasts will add life to the muted palette.

  6. 06

    Simplify and texture the building surfaces

    Add vertical window openings as dark linear marks; don't overstate them. Use a dry-brush technique with a mix of #626552 and #575542 to scrub texture into the walls, suggesting weathered stone and decay. Leave the left-facing surfaces relatively smooth and light. The right side should show more texture variation and warmer undertones.

  7. 07

    Soften and unify the distance

    The far buildings and rooflines should be progressively lighter and hazier than the foreground. Glaze over distant details with a thin veil of light gray-blue (pale #7f856d + Prussian Blue). Soften edges where distant buildings meet sky. This atmospheric perspective is critical—it makes the street feel like it actually recedes.

  8. 08

    Final refinement and edge control

    Walk through the entire piece and check value relationships. Sharpen edges in the foreground street and nearest buildings; blur edges as you move back. Add final accents of the deepest darks in shadow crevices if needed. The overall effect should feel quiet and atmospheric, not dramatic—a timeworn medieval street caught in gray northern light.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Perspective failure: the street must narrow convincingly as it recedes, or the entire composition collapses. Repeatedly check that your vanishing point is consistent and that the building walls actually converge.
  • Losing atmospheric depth: if you make the distant buildings as crisp and dark as the foreground, the sense of recession evaporates. The far structures must be lighter, hazier, and less detailed.
  • Over-darkening the right side: it's tempting to make the shadow side buildings nearly black, but they need to stay readable and connected to the lit left side. The contrast is subtle here, not dramatic.
  • Neglecting the street as a light element: the street is your value anchor—if it becomes as dark as the surrounding shadows, the composition loses its focal path. Keep it noticeably lighter than the walls.
  • Over-texturing and losing the mist: visible brushwork should suggest weathering, but overworking surfaces with fine details will destroy the dreamy, atmospheric quality that makes this piece special.

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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