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home·artworks·The Streetwalker (also known as Casque d Or)
The Streetwalker (also known as Casque d Or) by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

plate no. 1295

The Streetwalker (also known as Casque d Or)

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, 1891

oil, cardboardPost-Impressionismportraitportraitfigurewomanpathtreesclothing

what to study here

It shows how a simple value plan, hard-and-soft edges, and economical directional strokes can carry a figure's presence against a busy, dark background.

Look at how the figure is built from a few large value masses. The face is the lightest shape, a pale cream and ochre that separates cleanly from a dark ground of forest greens and near-blacks. The hair sits a step darker in mid-range golden yellow, and the jacket holds a middle ground of warm tan and ochre. Study the outlines. Dark blue-purple lines around the face and jacket silhouette carry as much structure as the modeled form, while the features inside the face blend softly. Edges are deliberately uneven: hard at the contour, soft within. Copy the brushwork too. Hair and jacket are drawn with sweeping, directional strokes that follow the form without detail, and the background is loose and quick, active but subordinate. Modeling in the face and jacket comes from warm and cool darks, not heavy chiaroscuro. The support is oil on cardboard, so note how visible, economical handling shapes the surface. Finally, watch the gaze: it is direct and slightly tired or defiant, and it is the first place the eye lands.

key decision

The painter set the lightest mass, the face, against the darkest area, the foliage background, and defined the figure with bold blue-purple outlines. Form inside the figure is kept soft and modulated.

recreation guide

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s 'The Streetwalker' (1891) is a quintessential example of Post-Impressionist portraiture, characterized by its focus on the human subject as a vehicle for emotional and formal expression rather than mere documentary likeness. Consistent with the genre's evolution during this period, the work likely prioritizes the 'harmonic arrangement of form and color' over strict photographic realism, aiming to capture the sitter's essence through bold brushwork and compositional balance (Source 3, Source 5). The painting reflects the artist's engagement with the modern urban experience, utilizing a palette and technique that emphasize the interplay of light and shadow to define the figure against the background.

estimated time

20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions

materials

5 items

steps

6 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paintsPrimary medium for color application and glazing—
Cardboard supportHistorical support material used by Lautrec for this specific workHeavyweight illustration board or primed canvas board
Oil of copavia (or linseed oil)Medium for thinning paints and creating glazesStand oil or refined linseed oil
Black, Ultramarine, WhiteCore pigments for the monochrome underpainting (grisaille)—
Red and Yellow pigmentsFor glazing and scumbling to introduce color tones—

preparation

surface prep

The original artwork was executed on cardboard. For recreation, prepare a rigid support such as heavy illustration board or canvas board. Prime the surface with a traditional oil ground or acrylic gesso to ensure proper adhesion of the oil paints. Lautrec often worked on unconventional supports, so ensuring the surface is stable and non-absorbent is critical for the glazing techniques described in the sources.

underdrawing

While specific preparatory drawings for this piece are not detailed in the provided sources, Lautrec was a trained draftsman. It is advisable to begin with a confident, expressive underdrawing that captures the 'emotional significance' of the pose rather than seeking 'scientific accuracy' (Source 7). The drawing should establish the major masses and proportions, leaving room for the painterly application of color to define the final form.

underpainting

Employ a grisaille (monochrome underpainting) technique. Using only black, ultramarine, and white mixed with oil of copavia, establish the tonal values of the composition. This step involves 'mentally extracting the red and yellow colours' to focus on the structural light and shadow (Source 1). This monochrome layer serves as the foundation for subsequent color glazes, allowing the artist to resolve compositional issues before introducing hue.

color palette

Black

Pure black pigment

Underpainting shadows and defining dark masses in the grisaille stage

Ultramarine

Pure ultramarine blue

Underpainting mid-tones and cool shadows in the grisaille stage

White

Lead white or Titanium white

Underpainting highlights and mixing with black/blue for grisaille tones

Red tones

Various red pigments (e.g., Vermilion, Cadmium Red)

Glazing and scumbling to introduce warmth and flesh tones

Yellow tones

Various yellow pigments (e.g., Yellow Ochre, Cadmium Yellow)

Glazing and scumbling to introduce warmth and highlights

composition

The composition likely emphasizes the 'harmonic arrangement of form and color' rather than strict narrative detail, consistent with the Post-Impressionist approach to portraiture (Source 5). The figure is positioned to create a balance between the subject and the background, utilizing contrast to separate the form from the space. The artist likely considered the 'simultaneous contrast' of colors, ensuring that the tones of the clothing and skin interact to enhance the visual impact of the portrait (Source 2).

step by step

underdrawing→underpainting→refining→finishing

underdrawing

  1. step 01

    Sketch the figure lightly on the prepared cardboard support, focusing on the overall posture and major proportions.

    Tip — Avoid over-defining lines; let the drawing serve as a guide for tonal masses.

    Expressive drawing

underpainting

  1. step 02

    Mix black, ultramarine, and white with oil of copavia to create a grisaille. Paint the entire composition in monochrome, establishing light, mid-tones, and shadows.

    Tip — Mentally exclude red and yellow hues to focus purely on value structure.

    Grisaille

refining

  1. step 03

    Allow the grisaille to dry completely. This is crucial before applying transparent layers.

    Tip — Rushing this step can lead to muddy colors and cracking.

    Drying

finishing

  1. step 04

    Apply transparent glazes of red and yellow tones over the dry grisaille. Use oil as a medium initially. This technique mimics tinting an engraving with watercolors.

    Tip — Observe how the underlying monochrome values influence the final color appearance.

    Glazing

  2. step 05

    Use semi-opaque scumbling techniques to adjust tones and add texture, particularly in areas where the underlying painting should remain visible.

    Tip — Be aware that scumbling over darker grounds can create a 'grey bloom' or coldness.

    Scumbling

  3. step 06

    Evaluate the color interactions. Adjust hues to account for simultaneous contrast, ensuring that adjacent colors enhance rather than diminish each other's intensity.

    Tip — Check for color fatigue; step back frequently to assess the overall harmony.

    Simultaneous Contrast

critical techniques

Glazing

Applying transparent coats of color over a dry monochrome underpainting to achieve luminosity and depth. This method was practiced by old masters and is recommended for achieving rich tones without muddying the paint.

Scumbling

Using semi-opaque paint to modify tones while allowing the underlying layer to show through. This adds texture and complexity to the surface.

Simultaneous Contrast

Considering how adjacent colors affect each other's perception. The artist must anticipate that colors will appear shifted by their complements when placed side-by-side.

common pitfalls

  • →Applying glazes before the underpainting is completely dry, which can result in mixing rather than optical layering.
  • →Ignoring the effects of simultaneous contrast, leading to colors that appear dull or discordant.
  • →Over-modeling details in the underdrawing, which can restrict the expressive freedom of the paint application.
  • →Using too much medium in glazes, which can lead to long drying times and potential cracking.

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific pigment recipes used by Lautrec for this particular painting are not provided in the sources.
  • ·The exact brushwork style (e.g., stroke direction, brush type) for this specific portrait is not detailed.
  • ·The specific lighting conditions and background elements of the original scene are not described in the sources.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • COLOURING A MONOCHROME — applied to Underpainting and glazing techniques
  • Laws of Contrast of Colour↗

    • 315-318 — applied to Color theory and simultaneous contrast
  • The Practice and Science of Drawing↗

    • FROM A STUDY BY BOTTICELLI — applied to Underdrawing philosophy

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: Portrait painting↗

    • Portrait painting — part 1 — applied to Genre context and intent
    • Portrait painting — part 16 — applied to Compositional harmony and modernist approach

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

A three-quarter portrait of a woman facing slightly left, positioned against a turbulent background of greens and deep blues suggesting foliage or trees. Her face, rendered in pale cream and ochre tones, commands the composition and catches warm light from the upper left, while her striking golden-blonde hair is piled high in an elaborate arrangement. She wears an ochre-yellow jacket with dark blue-purple outlines that define its form with bold confidence, and the path or ground beneath her torso shifts from warm browns and purples. The eye moves first to her direct, knowing gaze—slightly tired, slightly defiant—before noting the expressive energy of the background.

value structure

The face is the lightest mass, a luminous pale cream that stands cleanly against the dark background. Her hair sits just below the face in value (mid-range golden yellow), while the jacket occupies a middle ground of warm tan and ochre. The background foliage drops to deep darks—forest greens and near-blacks—creating strong separation. Within the face and jacket, warm and cool darks model form subtly rather than dramatically; there's no severe chiaroscuro here, but rather a modulated warm-to-cool interplay that creates dimension without harshness.

observed palette and mixes

  • #8f7e56

    Raw Sienna + Titanium White (cream for face), or Yellow Ochre + touch of Cadmium Yellow for hair highlights

    Face base, hair mid-tones, jacket mid-values

  • #796441

    Raw Sienna + Burnt Umber

    Jacket shadows, warm accents throughout the figure

  • #795a36

    Burnt Umber + Alizarin Crimson

    Deeper jacket shadows, hair darks, path beneath figure

  • #213226

    Viridian + Ultramarine Blue + touch of Ivory Black

    Deep background foliage, the darkest notes defining edges

  • #58563d

    Raw Umber + Ultramarine Blue

    The blue-purple outlines around face and jacket silhouette, shadow accents

edges and brushwork

Edges vary dramatically throughout—the face boundary is defined by crisp dark blue-purple outlines that are as important as the form itself, while internal facial features blend softly. The hair and jacket are painted with sweeping, directional strokes that suggest form through movement rather than detail; notice how the jacket's folds follow the body with economical brushwork. The background is loose and almost frenetic, with quick gestural marks that activate the space around the figure without competing for attention.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Composition and structure

    Lightly block the head as an oval, noting the tilt (slight leftward turn). Establish shoulder width and the jacket's basic silhouette. Place the eyes at mid-height of the head, slightly closer together than realistic—this woman's gaze has intensity. Mark the hairline and the dramatic height of the piled hair; this is the crown of the composition.

  2. 02

    Dark ground and silhouette

    Lay in the background with broad strokes of deep viridian and ultramarine, keeping it loose and active. Use this dark to establish the silhouette—the figure reads clearly against it. Don't worry about the foliage detail yet; you're creating separation and setting the stage for the lighter figure.

  3. 03

    Face block-in

    Paint the face in a pale, warm cream (Raw Sienna + White, with a whisper of Cadmium Yellow). Keep it as a unified light mass at first. Establish the structure: shadow planes on the cheek and jaw using warm browns (Raw Sienna + Alizarin). The expression depends on the eyes—paint them with a knowing directness, not softness. Add a warm shadow under the chin where the jaw meets the neck.

  4. 04

    Hair and the golden helmet

    Paint the hair in warm, bright golden yellows (Cadmium Yellow + touch of Raw Sienna). The strokes should follow the piled, swept-up arrangement—directional, energetic marks that show structure without rendering every strand. Darken the shadow side (her left) with cooler yellows and greens mixed in; this depth is crucial. The top should retain brightness; this is the 'golden helmet' that gives the painting its alternative title.

  5. 05

    The jacket and its personality

    Block the jacket in a warm ochre-yellow (Yellow Ochre + Raw Sienna). Use decisive strokes following the fabric's hang and folds. Add blue-purple accents (Ultramarine + Alizarin) along the left edge and in the shadow folds—these are not gentle: they're bold outlines that define the form with Post-Impressionist energy. Paint the buttons as dark circles with warm highlights. The right side receives more light; keep it brighter than the left.

  6. 06

    Foreground and path

    The area beneath the figure shifts from warm browns to muted purples and browns. Paint this with loose, horizontal strokes suggesting a path or ground. Let it be roughly textured; this isn't detailed landscape work. The warm-to-cool shift in color here echoes the color temperature play elsewhere in the painting.

  7. 07

    Background foliage and edge definition

    Now work the background foliage more actively. Use dark greens (Viridian + touch of Cadmium Yellow) and deep blues side by side, letting them suggest trees and shadowed vegetation without being literal. Paint around and behind the figure, reinforcing the silhouette. Where the dark background meets lighter figure, consider strategic blue-purple outlines that echo the jacket's contour—this ties the whole together.

  8. 08

    Character, refinement, and final energy

    Step back. The face should feel present, the hair proud, the jacket confident. Add any final accents—a touch of lighter tone on the cheekbone, perhaps a slight adjustment to the eye to ensure the direct gaze reads. Let brushstrokes remain visible; the painting's power comes from that expressive, unsentimental hand. The overall effect should be psychologically alert and alive, not prettified.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Over-finishing the face or treating it too photographically—the strength here is in confident suggestion and character, not anatomical precision. A looser hand will feel more authentic to the style.
  • Neglecting the blue-purple outlines and accents—they aren't shadows; they're compositional scaffolding that holds the image together. Own them boldly.
  • Making the hair uniform in tone—it must shift from warm golden yellows to cooler greens and muted tones on the shadow side to read as three-dimensional form.
  • Letting the background become muddy or timid—the foliage should feel almost frenetic, an energetic contrast that pushes the calm, centered figure forward.
  • Losing the expression—a slight adjustment to the set of the mouth or the intensity of the gaze can collapse the entire character. Study that reserved, knowing look carefully.

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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