
plate no. 6615
what to study here
It shows how one dominant color mass, varied edges and loose directional strokes can organize a simple profile portrait.
The useful lesson here is how a few large, controlled shapes carry the picture. The saturated red jacket is the biggest and brightest shape, so the eye lands there first, then moves up to the face and hair, which sit in cooler, darker values. Squint and three zones appear: warm ochre background, red mass, and the cooler head and fur. The profile and hair get decisive outlines and sharper edges against the background. The jacket folds and fur transitions are softer and more blended. The fur is built from directional, feathery strokes that follow its flow and are left visible rather than smoothed. The background is loose vertical ochre and green strokes that suggest an interior without competing with the figure. Warm light from the left front lifts the profile, fur collar and fabric folds. Study how little is resolved: the background stays unified and warm despite the green accents, and the edges are varied on purpose. The palette suggestions come from the vision analysis, so treat the mixes as starting points and match them against the image.
key decision
The painter made the red jacket the largest, brightest shape and set the face, hair and fur in cooler, darker values against a unified warm ochre ground. Sharp edges at the profile and soft edges in the fabric and fur steer the eye.
recreation guide
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s 'Girl in a Fur, Mademoiselle Jeanne Fontaine' (1891) is a quintessential example of his Post-Impressionist portraiture, characterized by a focus on the bohemian lifestyle of late 19th-century Paris (Source 8). The work is executed in oil on board, a medium that allows for the 'richer and denser color' and 'greater flexibility' associated with oil painting techniques of the period (Source 3). Lautrec’s style often involved capturing the 'emotional significance' of the subject rather than strict scientific accuracy, prioritizing the vivid presentation of form and character over commonplace appearance (Source 7). The painting likely employs principles of simultaneous contrast to harmonize the inherent colors of the flesh and fur with the chosen background and drapery, ensuring that the juxtaposition of tones creates a true gradation of light and depth (Source 1, Source 2).
estimated time
20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions
materials
6 items
steps
7 in sequence
materials
| item | purpose | modern equivalent |
|---|---|---|
| Oil paints (various pigments) | Primary medium for creating the image, allowing for layering and rich color density. | High-quality artist-grade oil paints (e.g., cadmiums, earths, whites). |
| Wood board or panel | Support surface, consistent with Lautrec’s frequent use of board for smaller works and posters. | MDF board or rigid wood panel, primed. |
| Linseed oil or poppy seed oil | Binder for the pigments; linseed for general use, poppy for lighter tones to prevent yellowing. | Refined linseed oil, cold-pressed poppy oil. |
| Turpentine or odorless mineral spirits | Thinner for initial layers and cleaning brushes. | Odorless mineral spirits (OMS) or Gamsol. |
| Charcoal or graphite | Underdrawing to establish form and composition. | Vine charcoal or soft graphite pencils. |
| Gesso or oil ground | To prepare the board surface for oil paint adhesion. | Acrylic gesso or traditional rabbit-skin glue and chalk ground. |
preparation
surface prep
The artwork is on board, which requires a stable, non-absorbent ground. Lautrec often worked on wood panels. Prepare the board by sealing it with a size (such as rabbit-skin glue or acrylic medium) to prevent the wood acids from degrading the paint, then apply multiple layers of gesso or an oil-based ground (white lead and linseed oil historically) to create a smooth, slightly absorbent surface suitable for the 'richer and denser color' of oil paints (Source 3). Ensure the surface is sanded smooth between coats to allow for the fine detail Lautrec is known for.
underdrawing
Lautrec was a skilled draughtsman and caricaturist. Begin with a light underdrawing using charcoal or thinned oil paint to establish the proportions and key contours of the figure. Focus on the 'emotional significance' of the pose and expression rather than rigid anatomical precision, as artistic accuracy demands recording the sensations produced by the subject (Source 7). The drawing should be loose enough to allow for the spontaneous adjustments Lautrec likely made, but firm enough to guide the placement of the fur and facial features.
underpainting
Apply a thin, monochromatic or limited-color underpainting (imprimatura) to establish the general tonal values. This step helps in 'perceiving and imitating promptly and surely the modifications of the light on the model' (Source 2). Use a neutral tone, such as raw umber or gray, to block in the shadows and mid-tones. This layer will help in judging the 'modifications of tone and of colour which they receive from contiguous colours' (Source 2).
color palette
Flesh tones
Lead white, vermilion, yellow ochre, and a touch of blue for shadows.
The face and hands of Mademoiselle Fontaine. These colors are 'fixed by the model' and must be harmonized with the surrounding elements (Source 1).
Fur tones
Burnt umber, raw sienna, black, and white.
The fur garment. The texture and value contrast are critical here.
Background/Draperies
Various earths, blues, or greens depending on the specific version, but likely complementary to the flesh tones.
The background and clothing. The artist has a 'choice of draperies, ornaments, background' to harmonize the composition (Source 1).
Highlights
Pure white or very pale tint.
Catchlights in the eyes and highlights on the fur.
composition
While specific compositional details of this exact painting are not described in the sources, Lautrec’s portraits typically feature a direct, engaging gaze and a cropped composition that focuses on the subject’s personality. The arrangement likely utilizes the 'law of simultaneous contrast' to ensure that the flesh tones stand out against the darker fur and background. The 'lightest tone will be lowered, and the darkest tone will be heightened' by the juxtaposition, creating a dynamic visual tension (Source 2). The composition is likely designed to 'devote itself to great effects,' from which 'many small ones resulted' (Source 1).
step by step
underdrawing
step 01
Sketch the basic proportions of the head, shoulders, and fur collar using charcoal or thinned paint. Focus on the gesture and expression.
Tip — Keep lines light and flexible. Lautrec’s drawings were often expressive rather than rigidly accurate (Source 7).
Direct drawing
underpainting
step 02
Apply a thin wash of neutral tone to establish the major light and shadow areas. This helps in perceiving the 'modifications of the light on the model' (Source 2).
Tip — Do not worry about color yet; focus on value structure.
Imprimatura
first pass
step 03
Block in the local colors of the fur, skin, and background. Use broader brushstrokes to establish the 'broad masses' (Source 6).
Tip — Be mindful of the 'simultaneous contrast of colours'; the colors will appear different when placed next to each other (Source 2).
Blocking in
refining
step 04
Refine the flesh tones, paying attention to the 'modifications of tone and of colour which they receive from contiguous colours' (Source 2). Add detail to the eyes and mouth to capture the 'emotional significance' (Source 7).
Tip — Use the 'law of chiaroscuro' to enhance the gradation of light at the edges of the face against the fur (Source 1).
Glazing and scumbling
step 05
Work on the texture of the fur. Use varied brushwork to suggest the softness and volume. Lautrec often used loose, expressive strokes for textures.
Tip — Avoid over-modeling; Lautrec’s style is characterized by a balance of detail and suggestion (Source 6).
Impasto or dry brush
finishing
step 06
Adjust the contrasts and harmonize the colors. Ensure that the 'colours of a composition which are Inherent to the Nature of the Object represented' are balanced with the chosen background (Source 1).
Tip — Step back frequently to assess the overall effect and the 'simultaneous contrast' (Source 2).
Final adjustments
varnishing
step 07
Once the painting is completely dry (which may take months for oil on board), apply a varnish to protect the surface and unify the sheen.
Tip — Use a resin-based varnish, such as damar, to provide protection and enhance the depth of color (Source 3).
Varnishing
critical techniques
Simultaneous Contrast
Lautrec, like many Post-Impressionists, would have been aware of how adjacent colors affect each other. The 'lightest tone will be lowered, and the darkest tone will be heightened' by the juxtaposition, creating a more vibrant and dynamic image (Source 2).
Chiaroscuro
The use of light and shadow to create volume. 'Chiaro-scuro is produced' by the juxtaposition of different tones, leading to a 'true gradation of light' (Source 1).
Expressive Drawing
Lautrec’s drawing style was not about 'scientific accuracy' but about conveying the 'emotional significance' of the subject (Source 7).
common pitfalls
what the sources don't tell us
Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.
grounded in
The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.
Laws of Contrast of Colour↗
The Practice of Oil Painting↗
The Practice and Science of Drawing↗
cross-referenced from
Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.
Wikipedia: Oil painting↗
Wikipedia: Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec↗
Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.
what the eye sees
A woman in three-quarter profile sits facing left, wearing a brilliant red jacket with a large tan fur stole draped across her shoulders. Her hair is swept up in a dark updo with a red ribbon accent. Warm light from the left front illuminates the profile, the fur collar, and the fabric folds, creating a luminous quality against the warm ochre background. The eye travels first to the saturated red jacket—the brightest color and largest shape—then up to the face and hair, which serve as a cool counterpoint in darker values. Loose vertical green strokes in the background on the right create visual rhythm and suggest an interior space.
value structure
The value range is moderate but well-organized: the face and fur collar are the lightest lights, the dark hair and jacket shadows are the darkest darks, and the red jacket dominates as a strong mid-dark value that anchors the composition. When you squint, three distinct zones emerge—the warm background, the bright red fabric mass, and the figure's cooler upper portion (head and fur). The background reads as a unified warm tone despite the green accents, while the red creates powerful local contrast that holds the eye.
observed palette and mixes
#a5322e
Alizarin crimson + burnt sienna for depth; add white to lighten for jacket shadows
Dominant red jacket, shadow areas within the red fabric
#c4a354
Yellow ochre + cadmium yellow + white, with burnt sienna for warm depth
Fur stole highlights and mid-tones, creating soft luminosity
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Raw sienna + cadmium yellow + white with touches of cadmium red
Fur shadows and mid-tones, blending between light and dark areas
#5b2925
Burnt sienna + ultramarine + alizarin for depth
Hair, dark outlines, deepest shadows in the fur
#ae773e
Yellow ochre + burnt sienna + white
Background left side, warm atmospheric tone throughout
#a06136
Cadmium yellow + burnt sienna + ultramarine for brownish tone
Mid-tone transitions in hair and shadow areas
edges and brushwork
The background features loose, confident vertical strokes in ochre and green that create texture without distraction. The fur is rendered with directional, feathery brushwork that follows its natural flow and volume—not blended smooth, but layered with visible strokes that suggest depth. The profile and hair have decisive outlines and sharper edges where they meet the background, while the jacket folds and fur transitions use softer edges and more blending. The overall approach is painterly and assured—brushstrokes are visible and purposeful rather than fussy.
a working sequence
Composition and structure
Lightly sketch the profile outline, the position of the head, neck, and shoulders. Mark where the fur collar sits—it should extend well back across the shoulders. Note that the figure is roughly centered with a slight lean. Establish the horizon line and background proportions.
Background foundation
Block in the entire background with loose strokes: warm ochre-yellow on the left side, and green vertical strokes on the right. Keep it loose and textured; this sets the warm, intimate atmosphere. Work confidently without overblending.
Red jacket and fabric
Lay down the bright red of the jacket as a unified shape. Use a medium red (alizarin + white, not pure tube red). Block in the darker reds in shadow areas where the jacket folds. Define the edge where the red meets the background.
Fur collar and stole
Paint the fur with warmer tones (yellow ochre, raw sienna, white). Use directional strokes to suggest the fur's texture and direction—it should look soft and have volume, not flat. Layer darker browns into the shadows within the fur without losing the light quality.
Hair and head structure
Underpaint the hair with burnt sienna and ultramarine, establishing the dark mass and the updo shape. Add warmer notes (burnt sienna + cadmium yellow) where the light catches the crown. Observe how the hair has both red and brown undertones.
Face and features
Paint the face with a pale peachy tone (white + touch of red oxide + yellow ochre). Pay close attention to the profile line—the nose, lips, and chin define the character. Keep edges soft on the face; it should breathe into the background. Add minimal detail; suggestion works better than description.
Refinement and texture
Add definition to the red ribbon in the hair and the fabric folds in the jacket. Strengthen the darkest lines (hair outline, jacket contour) with decisive strokes. Enhance the background texture with additional green strokes and warm ochre variations. Ensure the fur has convincing surface quality through layered, directional marks.
Final integration and edges
Step back and assess value relationships. Soften any harsh edges, especially where the figure meets the background. Brighten highlights on the fur and face if needed. Check that the red reads as a cohesive mass with convincing folds and that the entire piece feels harmonious in its warm color cast.
where studies of this painting go wrong
measured difficulty
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