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home·artworks·Landscape, Shinnecock Hills
Landscape, Shinnecock Hills by William Merritt Chase

plate no. 5353

Landscape, Shinnecock Hills

William Merritt Chase, 1900

oil, canvasImpressionismlandscapelandscapehillstreesgrassskypath

what to study here

It shows how a narrow range of greens can hold together through value grouping, soft edges, and one dark accent.

Look at how this landscape is organized by value before anything else. Squint and it breaks into three zones: pale sky and foreground highlights, a unified band of warm yellow-green and olive mid-tones across the hills and grass, and one strong dark accent in the tree. The sky and lightest mowed patches stay pale but never pure white, which keeps the whole scene in one atmospheric key. The mowed path cuts diagonally from the lower foreground and leads the eye to the tree in the middle distance. Edges are soft throughout: the tree melts into the grass and the hills fade into the sky without a defined boundary. The brushwork changes with the subject. Foreground grasses get long vertical marks, the tree is built from loose, chunky dabs of varied greens that suggest density without detail, and the hills are handled with diagonal strokes that follow the slope. Distant slopes turn cooler and hazier toward the horizon, while nearer ground is warmer. Small muted purple and pink touches stand in for wildflowers.

key decision

Chase keeps most of the canvas in a narrow warm mid-tone band and reserves a single dark mass, the tree, as the only strong value accent. He softens its edges into the surrounding grass so it reads as part of the landscape.

recreation guide

William Merritt Chase’s *Landscape, Shinnecock Hills* (1900) is a quintessential example of American Impressionism, characterized by its loose, energetic brushwork and emphasis on the transient effects of light. As an exponent of Impressionism and a prominent teacher, Chase’s practice involved capturing the 'modifications of the light on the model' with promptness and surety, rather than laborious studio refinement (Source 2). The work likely employs a technique where broad masses of color are established first, allowing for the spontaneous production of smaller details through the principles of simultaneous contrast and chiaroscuro (Source 1). While specific visual details of the Shinnecock landscape are not described in the provided texts, the painting fits within the tradition of 19th-century landscape painting that sought to express the special nature of the homeland, often utilizing a palette determined by the subject but adjusted for harmonic effect (Source 4).

estimated time

20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions

materials

5 items

steps

5 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paints (Ultramarine, White, Black, Yellow Ochre, Vermilion/Red)Primary pigments for underpainting and glazingStandard tube oils; ensure high pigment load for transparency in glazing
CanvasSupport for the oil paintingLinen or cotton duck, primed
Oil of Copavia or Linseed OilMedium for the first and second paintings, as noted in Reynolds' method cited by Chase's contemporariesStand oil or refined linseed oil
VarnishMixed with oil for later glazing stages to gain mastery over transparent tonesDammar or synthetic resin varnish
Brushes (Flat and Filbert)For applying broad masses and loose brushwork characteristic of Chase's Munich trainingHog bristle for impasto, sable for glazing

preparation

surface prep

The canvas should be prepared with a ground that allows for the 'glazing and scumbling' techniques described in the sources. While Chase’s specific ground for this piece is not detailed, the practice of the period often involved a neutral or toned ground to facilitate the extraction of red and yellow tones in the underpainting phase (Source 3). The surface should be smooth enough to allow for transparent glazes but textured enough to hold the loose brushwork associated with his Munich training (Source 6).

underdrawing

Chase’s Impressionist style suggests a minimal or non-existent visible underdrawing, as the focus is on the 'prompt and sure' imitation of light modifications (Source 2). Any preliminary sketch would likely be done in thin oil or charcoal, quickly covered by the first layer of paint to avoid 'smallness' and over-modeling (Source 5).

underpainting

The underpainting likely follows a monochrome or grisaille approach, mentally extracting red and yellow colors to establish the tonal structure (Source 3). This 'grisaille' serves as the foundation for subsequent glazing. The artist would use black, ultramarine, and white to create the initial values, adhering to the method cited by Sir Joshua Reynolds which influenced the academic training of the era (Source 3).

color palette

Ultramarine

Pure ultramarine blue

Underpainting and sky tones; part of the initial black/white/blue palette for value structure

White

Lead white or Zinc white

Highlighting and mixing with ultramarine/black for the grisaille underpainting

Black

Ivory black or Lamp black

Establishing shadows and depth in the underpainting

Yellow Ochre

Natural earth pigment

Glazing and scumbling to introduce warmth and earth tones in the landscape

Vermilion/Red

Red lead or Cadmium red

Glazing to introduce warmth and flesh tones if figures are present, or to enhance the 'red and yellow tones' extracted in the underpainting

composition

While specific compositional elements of *Landscape, Shinnecock Hills* are not detailed in the sources, Chase’s work generally adheres to the principles of visual ordering where elements relate to the whole (Source 8). The composition likely emphasizes 'great effects' from which 'many small ones resulted,' relying on the juxtaposition of tones to create a true gradation of light (Source 1). The artist would have chosen the color of the sky and accidental effects to harmonize with the inherent colors of the landscape, substituting true colors with those of a neighboring scale for better harmony (Source 1).

step by step

underpainting→first pass→refining→finishing→varnishing

underpainting

  1. step 01

    Create a monochrome grisaille using black, ultramarine, and white. Mentally extract red and yellow tones to establish the value structure of the landscape.

    Tip — Ensure the grisaille is quite dry before proceeding to glazing.

    Monochrome Underpainting

first pass

  1. step 02

    Apply broad masses of color using oil of copavia or linseed oil. Focus on the 'modifications of the light on the model' rather than fine details.

    Tip — Avoid over-modeling; check for tendencies to 'smallness' by stepping back frequently.

    Alla Prima / Broad Massing

refining

  1. step 03

    Glaze and scumble yellow and red tones over the dry underpainting. Use transparent coats of color to harmonize the composition.

    Tip — Scumbling over a darker ground tends to coldness; use this to create grey blooms or atmospheric effects.

    Glazing and Scumbling

finishing

  1. step 04

    Adjust colors based on simultaneous contrast. Ensure that juxtaposed colors enhance each other, with the lightest tone lowered and the darkest heightened.

    Tip — Be aware of 'mixed contrast' where the eye sees the complementary of the previously viewed color, leading to inaccuracies.

    Simultaneous Contrast

varnishing

  1. step 05

    Apply a final varnish to protect the painting and unify the glazes.

    Tip — Ensure all layers are completely dry to prevent cracking.

    Varnishing

critical techniques

Simultaneous Contrast

Used to harmonize colors and create true gradations of light. Juxtaposing colors causes the lightest tone to be lowered and the darkest heightened, enhancing the visual impact.

Glazing and Scumbling

Transparent coats of color (glazing) and semi-opaque painting (scumbling) are used over a dry monochrome underpainting to introduce warmth and harmony.

Prompt Imitation of Light

The artist seeks to perceive and imitate the modifications of light on the model quickly, avoiding the fatigue of disentangling feeble modifications.

common pitfalls

  • →Over-modeling and becoming 'too much tied down to your outline,' which leads to smallness and loss of the broad effects characteristic of Impressionism (Source 5).
  • →Ignoring the effects of simultaneous contrast, leading to inaccurate color perception where the eye sees the complementary of the previously viewed color (Source 2).
  • →Applying glazes before the underpainting is completely dry, which can ruin the transparency and harmony of the final work (Source 3).

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific visual details of the Shinnecock Hills landscape (e.g., specific trees, dunes, or figures) are not described in the sources.
  • ·Chase’s exact palette for this specific 1900 painting is not detailed; the palette is inferred from general Impressionist practices and the cited texts.
  • ·The specific dimensions and aspect ratio of the canvas are not provided.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • Laws of Contrast of Colour↗

    • 6. Chiaroscuro and Simultaneous Contrast — applied to Understanding how juxtaposed colors affect tone and value, crucial for the finishing phase.
    • 315-318. Advantages and Mixed Contrast — applied to Guiding the prompt imitation of light and avoiding color perception errors.
  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • Colouring a Monochrome — applied to The underpainting and glazing/scumbling techniques.
    • On Copying — applied to Advice on avoiding over-modeling and smallness.

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: William Merritt Chase↗

    • Biography — applied to Contextualizing Chase’s Impressionist style and Munich training.

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

A sun-warmed rolling landscape defined by a mowed grass path cutting diagonally into the composition from the lower foreground, immediately drawing the eye toward a substantial dark green tree anchoring the middle distance. Pale, diffuse light from above-left creates soft shadows within the tree's canopy and across the hills; the entire scene reads as afternoon on an overcast but warm day. The distant hills recede in gentle waves, their yellowy-green slopes creating layers that move from warmer tones in the near-middle ground to cooler, hazier slopes at the horizon. Small brushwork throughout the foreground and mid-ground suggests individual grasses, wildflowers in muted purples and pinks, and scattered smaller trees.

value structure

The composition rests on a strong mid-tone foundation—most of the hills and grass areas occupy a narrow band of warm yellow-greens and olive tones. The sky and lightest mowed patches are distinctly pale but never pure white, maintaining an overall atmospheric unity. Darkest values appear concentrated in the tree's shadowed interior and foliage edges. When squinted, three clear value zones emerge: pale sky and foreground highlights, unified warm mid-tones across the hills and grass, and a single strong dark accent in the tree.

observed palette and mixes

  • #ece9e1

    Titanium white with touch of yellow ochre

    Sky, mowed grass patches in foreground bottom, light cloud areas

  • #dad6b8

    Titanium white with raw umber and yellow ochre

    Pale sky passages, distant hill highlights

  • #b7a961

    Yellow ochre with ultramarine blue and white

    Sunlit hill slopes, warm grass in mid-ground and sides

  • #9e9c4d

    Sap green with yellow ochre and raw umber

    Mid-tone grass areas, rolling hills on left and right edges

  • #8d8a42

    Raw umber with sap green and ultramarine blue

    Shadowed grass slopes, transition zones between lit and shaded areas

  • #63662c

    Sap green with ultramarine blue and alizarin crimson

    Dark tree foliage, deepest shadows within tree canopy, dark vegetation edges

edges and brushwork

Chase handles nearly every edge as a soft transition rather than a line—the tree melts into surrounding grass, hills fade into sky without defined boundaries. Brushstrokes are distinctly directional: long, vertical marks in foreground grasses suggest growth and texture; loose, chunky dabs of varying greens build tree foliage as an impression of density rather than detail; diagonal horizontal strokes follow the slope of hills, reinforcing the landscape's gentle topography.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Establish structure with thin underpainting

    Lightly sketch the horizon line roughly in the upper third. Block in the dark tree mass as a simple rounded shape in the left-center. Draw the foreground path as a gentle diagonal strip leading from bottom-left toward the tree base. This is your compositional anchor—everything flows from this mowed area.

  2. 02

    Paint the sky and establish atmospheric foundation

    Apply pale cream sky (mix white with touches of yellow ochre and raw umber) across the upper portion. Blend it so there's no visible horizon line yet—just a soft, even pale expanse. This neutral beginning prevents you from oversaturating greens later.

  3. 03

    Establish distant hills with cool, pale greens

    Using pale yellow-green mixes (white + yellow ochre + touch of blue), paint the receding hill slopes in the upper-middle distance. Keep these noticeably cooler and lighter than foreground greens—this creates atmospheric perspective immediately. The small trees dotting the far ridgeline should be small, soft marks, not detailed.

  4. 04

    Block in the dark tree with strong value contrast

    Mix your darkest green (sap green + ultramarine blue + touch of alizarin) and paint the tree mass boldly. Don't blend it yet; let this dark anchor sit against the pale hills. This is your value reference point—everything else will be lighter. The tree's right edge should be softer than its left where light catches foliage.

  5. 05

    Develop foreground and mid-ground grass with warm greens

    Paint the sunlit slopes on either side of the path with warm yellow-green (yellow ochre + sap green). Use directional, loose strokes following the downhill slope. Introduce subtle purples and pinks in the foreground grass (alizarin mixed into greens) where wildflowers catch light. The path itself stays pale cream but with greenish shadows along its edges.

  6. 06

    Add textural foreground detail with varied greens and marks

    With a smaller brush, apply vertical scribbles and dabs of variable greens in the immediate foreground—mix pure sap green, olive tones (yellow ochre + blue), and even cooler blue-greens into this texture. Vary the marks; don't create rhythm. Include small flicks of pale cream where grass catches light, and tiny touches of purple-pink where wildflowers read as small accents.

  7. 07

    Soften tree edges and integrate into landscape

    Dry-brush lighter greens around the tree's perimeter so it doesn't appear cut out. The tree's right side especially should fade into surrounding hills; blend warm greens into the dark foliage edge. Small lighter marks on the tree's top suggest leaf clusters catching light from above.

  8. 08

    Unify with atmospheric adjustments and value checks

    Step back and verify distant hills are noticeably cooler and paler than foreground. If the tree feels too dark, it's likely correct—use it as your value anchor. Soften sky-to-hill transitions if they feel hard. Bring warm ochre-greens forward in the near foreground to push the darker mid-ground back.

  9. 09

    Final details and edge refinement

    Add small foreground grass details with pure green and pale cream highlights where light catches texture. Ensure no edges are sharp except occasionally where vegetation naturally reads as defined (grass edge against path). A few final cool-purple shadows in foreground wildflowers ground the color palette.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Allowing foreground greens to become too bright or uniform—these hills have distinct warm and cool zones even within single slopes; mix each area individually rather than pre-mixing a 'grass green'
  • Overworking the sky—it's intentionally pale and simple; resist blending it to perfection, which reads as dead rather than atmospheric
  • Making distant hills too dark—they must recede through value and temperature; if they approach the midground in brightness, the landscape flattens
  • Treating the foreground grass as a background—the visible directional marks and texture here are what invite the viewer into the scene; this requires a lighter touch and patience, not rushing
  • Allowing the tree to dominate without softer edges—a hard dark silhouette reads as a cutout rather than part of the landscape; blend its perimeter throughout

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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