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home·artworks·Girl in a Japanese Costume
Girl in a Japanese Costume by William Merritt Chase

plate no. 2062

Girl in a Japanese Costume

William Merritt Chase, 1890

oil, canvasImpressionismportraitportraitfigurekimonowomanclothing

what to study here

It shows how one tightly handled face can hold a portrait when the background and costume are painted loosely and kept subordinate in value.

Start with the value structure, because the whole portrait depends on it. The vision analysis describes three groups: a pale face, a warm golden-brown background and mid-dark kimono at middle value, and dark accents in the hair and deepest folds. The face is the lightest and most carefully modeled area, so the eye lands there first. Study how edge control carries the picture. The face has the tightest edges, with soft transitions and barely perceptible edges around the features. The background dissolves into loose, gestural strokes that suggest form without describing detail. The kimono sits between the two: directional strokes follow the fabric's structure, and the red-orange and yellow-gold plant motifs are painted with a balance of definition and spontaneity. Notice the color relationships too. The lavender-blue kimono and warm orange-red obi sit against a warm golden-brown ground, and the dark hair echoes the background tones while framing the face. Copy the restraint: the face is not over-rendered, and the contrast between controlled and loose passages is what gives the head its presence.

key decision

The painter concentrated the softest, most precise modeling and the lightest values on the face, and let the background and kimono be handled in looser, directional strokes. That contrast in edge and brushwork sets the hierarchy.

From the record

Dimensions
62.5 cm high × 39.8 cm wide
Institution
Brooklyn Museum
Location
Brooklyn Museum
Inception
1890
Materials
oil paint, canvas

Wikidata item Q28797264

recreation guide

William Merritt Chase’s 'Girl in a Japanese Costume' (1890) is a portrait executed in the Impressionist style, characterized by a focus on light, color, and the immediate visual impression of the subject. While specific visual details of the costume or background are not described in the provided sources, the work aligns with Chase’s broader practice of oil painting, which often involved sophisticated layering techniques. The painting likely employs a method where the artist mentally extracts certain color tones to establish a structural underpainting before applying transparent and semi-opaque layers to achieve the final chromatic effect. This approach allows for a dynamic interplay of light and shadow, consistent with the principles of simultaneous contrast and color harmony discussed in the sources.

estimated time

20-30 hours over 5-7 sessions

materials

4 items

steps

5 in sequence

materials

itempurposemodern equivalent
Oil paints (Black, Ultramarine, White, Yellow, Red tones)For the grisaille underpainting and subsequent glazing/scumbling layers—
Oil of Copavia (or modern linseed/stand oil)Medium for the first and second paintings to facilitate flow and transparencyStand oil or refined linseed oil
CanvasSupport for the oil painting—
VarnishMixed with oil for later glazing stages to gain mastery over transparencyDammar varnish or similar painting medium

preparation

surface prep

The canvas should be prepared to accept oil paint. While specific ground preparation for this exact painting is not detailed in the sources, the technique described involves working on a surface that can support a dry grisaille underpainting before glazing. The artist likely used a neutral or toned ground to facilitate the extraction of red and yellow tones in the initial monochrome stage (Source 1).

underdrawing

The sources do not specify Chase’s underdrawing method for this portrait. However, general advice for copying and painting suggests that a sound craftsman must first master the 'alphabet of our art' (Source 6). It is likely that a loose, gestural underdrawing was used to establish the composition and proportions, consistent with Impressionist practices, though specific lines are not preserved in the final glaze-heavy surface.

underpainting

The process likely began with a grisaille (monochrome) underpainting. The artist would mentally extract red and yellow colors, translating what would remain in nature if these colors were absent, using black, ultramarine, and white (Source 1). This grisaille establishes the value structure and chiaroscuro before color is introduced. This step is crucial for 'devoting themselves to great effects' from which 'many small ones resulted' (Source 2).

color palette

Black, Ultramarine, White

Pure pigments

The initial grisaille underpainting to establish values and form (Source 1)

Yellow and Red tones

Transparent oils

Glazing and scumbling over the dry grisaille to introduce color, similar to tinting an engraving (Source 1)

Complementary pairs (e.g., Blue-Orange, Red-Green)

Dependent on specific costume details

Creating contrast and harmony; placing complementary colors next to each other creates strong contrast and visual tension (Source 4, Source 7)

composition

The composition likely emphasizes the central figure, utilizing the principles of visual ordering where elements relate to the whole artwork (Source 5). While specific layout details are not provided, the artist would have considered the 'utility of the law' to harmonize colors inherent to the object (the costume) with those chosen for the background (Source 2). The arrangement likely avoids static symmetry, instead using dynamic contrasts of tone and color to guide the viewer's eye (Source 2, Source 5).

step by step

underpainting→first pass→refining→finishing

underpainting

  1. step 01

    Create a grisaille underpainting using black, ultramarine, and white. Mentally extract red and yellow tones to focus on the underlying structure and values.

    Tip — Ensure the grisaille is completely dry before proceeding to glazing.

    Grisaille

first pass

  1. step 02

    Apply the first painting with oil of copavia (or similar medium) using the grisaille colors to refine the form.

    Tip — Focus on broad masses and correct values before introducing color.

    Oil painting with medium

refining

  1. step 03

    Glaze and scumble with oil, introducing yellow and red tones as they occur in the subject. Treat this like tinting an engraving with watercolors.

    Tip — Glazing is a transparent coat; scumbling is semi-opaque. Use scumbling over darker grounds to create coldness or grey blooms.

    Glazing and Scumbling

  2. step 04

    As mastery increases, mix varnish with oil for subsequent glazing layers to enhance depth and luminosity.

    Tip — Be cautious of the 'prejudice against this method' among modern painters, but recognize its use by old masters for rich effects.

    Varnish glazing

finishing

  1. step 05

    Adjust colors based on simultaneous contrast. Ensure that juxtaposed colors enhance each other, with the lightest tone lowered and the darkest heightened.

    Tip — Check for 'mixed contrast' effects where the eye’s tendency to see the complementary of a previously viewed color might distort perception.

    Simultaneous Contrast

critical techniques

Glazing and Scumbling

Glazing involves applying a transparent coat of color over a dry underpainting. Scumbling involves semi-opaque painting where the underlying layer shows through. This method was practiced by old masters and allows for rich, luminous effects and the creation of 'grey blooms' over darker grounds (Source 1).

Simultaneous Contrast

When two colors are juxtaposed, they appear modified by the complementary of the other. The artist must account for this to accurately represent the model and harmonize the composition. This law helps in perceiving and imitating light modifications promptly (Source 2, Source 8).

Color Harmony

Using complementary, split-complementary, or analogous colors to create aesthetically pleasing combinations. Complementary colors create the most contrast and visual tension (Source 7).

common pitfalls

  • →Failing to let the grisaille dry completely before glazing, which can muddy the colors and ruin the transparency effect (Source 1).
  • →Ignoring the effects of simultaneous contrast, leading to inaccurate color representation where juxtaposed colors appear altered by their neighbors (Source 2, Source 8).
  • →Over-modeling or becoming too tied to outlines, which can result in a 'smallness' that detracts from the broad, impressionistic effects (Source 6).
  • →Allowing 'mixed contrast' to distort perception, where the eye’s fatigue from viewing one color affects the perception of the next (Source 8).

what the sources don't tell us

Where the corpus is silent, we say so rather than guess. These are the gaps a complete recreation guide would normally cover that our source passages don't.

  • ·Specific details of the Japanese costume (patterns, exact colors, accessories) are not described in the sources.
  • ·The exact background setting and room layout are not specified.
  • ·Chase’s specific brushwork style for this portrait is not detailed, only general Impressionist tendencies.
  • ·The specific proportions and pose of the girl are not described.

grounded in

The technical procedure in this guide traces to the following classical art-instruction texts.

  • The Practice of Oil Painting↗

    • COLOURING A MONOCHROME — applied to Underpainting, glazing, scumbling, and medium usage
    • ON COPYING — applied to General craft advice and avoiding over-modeling
  • Laws of Contrast of Colour↗

    • 6. Put beside each other two flat tints... — applied to Simultaneous contrast and color harmony principles

cross-referenced from

Named facts about this artwork and artist were checked against these reference pages.

  • Wikipedia: Complementary colors↗

    • Complementary colors — part 1 — applied to Understanding color pairs and contrast
  • Wikipedia: Harmony (color)↗

    • Harmony (color) — part 1 — applied to Color harmony strategies

Read more about the corpus on the sources page and how the guides are built on the methods page.

read from the painting

observed from the image, not the label
6 dominant colors, measured

what the eye sees

Light falls from the upper left-front, illuminating the face with luminous clarity while the background recedes into warm golden-brown shadow. The figure is presented in a three-quarter view with a subtle downward tilt, the pale face dominating the upper half. The eye is drawn first to the face—it's the brightest, most carefully modeled area—then down to the richly patterned lavender-blue kimono with its warm orange-red obi and scattered red-orange and yellow-gold plant motifs. The dark hair masses frame the face and echo the warm background tones.

value structure

The composition is built on a clear value split: pale face (light) against warm golden-brown background (medium), with the kimono sitting at mid-dark values. The darkest darks anchor the hair and deepest fabric folds; the lightest lights sit on the face, particularly the forehead and cheekbone. Three distinct value groups—light face, medium background and mid-tone kimono, dark accents in hair and shadows—create a readable hierarchy that guides the eye naturally to the portrait.

observed palette and mixes

  • #7f6239

    Yellow ochre + burnt umber + titanium white

    Primary background establishing warm atmospheric tone; dominant throughout the composition

  • #d0b299

    Titanium white + cadmium red + yellow ochre

    Face highlights and brightest skin tones—forehead, cheekbone, bridge of nose

  • #a78d7e

    Yellow ochre + titanium white + touch of burnt umber

    Skin shadows on the face and mid-tone background areas

  • #966c3d

    Cadmium red + yellow ochre + touch of ultramarine

    Reddish accents in the obi sash and red-orange flower patterns on the kimono

  • #7e5320

    Burnt umber + ultramarine blue

    Hair shadows, darker background passages, and medium-value fabric fold shadows

  • #50391e

    Ultramarine blue + burnt umber (dark mixture)

    Darkest hair shadows and deepest fold shadows in the kimono

edges and brushwork

The face commands the tightest edges—soft transitions between light and shadow, barely perceptible edges around features—while the background dissolves into loose, gestural brushstrokes that suggest form without describing detail. The kimono pattern shows energetic, directional strokes that follow the fabric's structure; the flowers are painted with a balance of definition and spontaneity. This contrast between controlled face work and liberated brushwork elsewhere is essential to the portrait's presence.

a working sequence

  1. 01

    Golden background

    Block in the golden-brown background loosely with yellow ochre, burnt umber, and white. Keep edges soft and let the surface be textured—this isn't a wall, it's atmospheric. The background is slightly warmer on the left where light falls and shifts toward darker tones on the right and upper left.

  2. 02

    Head structure

    Lightly indicate the head's three-quarter turn and the subtle downward tilt of the gaze. Note how the dark hair masses frame the pale face and echo the background tones. Mark proportions for eyes, nose, mouth—the face is the focus, but work with value and color, not hard lines.

  3. 03

    Broad color zones

    Lay down the muted lavender-blue for the kimono base using ultramarine blue and white. Rough in the warm orange-red obi as a horizontal accent at the waist. This establishes color temperature and major value relationships. Leave the pattern for later—focus on structure and silhouette.

  4. 04

    Skin tones and face modeling

    Mix a soft flesh tone using white, cadmium red, and yellow ochre. Block in shadows on the face—cheekbone shadow, jaw line, eye socket—keeping it broad and soft. Brightest lights sit on forehead, cheekbone, and bridge of nose. Restraint here is critical; the magic is in under-working, not detail.

  5. 05

    Features with soft edges

    Paint the eyes—note the warm golden-brown iris and how the upper lid casts shadow. Soften the nose with warm and cool transitions, not a hard line. The mouth is a muted rose-red that sits into the face. Edge control determines whether the portrait feels luminous or flat; keep transitions soft and almost imperceptible.

  6. 06

    Kimono patterns and folds

    Use directional strokes to lay in red-orange and yellow-gold flower and leaf shapes, letting the pattern follow the fabric's structure and wrinkles. White shapes should feel luminous but unworked. The brushwork here is more graphic than the face—embrace the gesture and spontaneity; each stroke should look confident.

  7. 07

    Neck and integration

    Model the neck carefully to connect the head to the body—show how fabric drapes and folds, breaking up the pattern naturally. The transition from pale skin to colored fabric should be firm but not harsh; the neck grounds the face in three-dimensional form.

  8. 08

    Final adjustments

    Check values—the face should read clearly against the background. Soften any background edges that feel too crisp or distracting. Add any final luminous accents to the kimono pattern where needed. Step back; this painting is about presence and restraint, not perfection.

where studies of this painting go wrong

  • Over-rendering the face—the portrait's power comes from soft, decisive brushwork rather than careful detail; resist the impulse to blend excessively or add texture where none exists.
  • Making the kimono pattern too uniform or decorative—the pattern should be broken by fabric folds and wrinkles; if every flower reads equally, it feels like wallpaper instead of a worn garment.
  • Muddying the obi's warm red-orange—this sash provides essential color contrast and visual weight; keeping it pure and warm is critical to the overall harmony.
  • Leaving the background feeling incidental—while loose, the background needs tonal variation and directional brushwork to sit properly behind and support the figure.

measured difficulty

beginner friendliness
value contrast
palette complexity
compositional simplicity
brushwork visibility

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oil painting for beginners →color theory for painters →how to learn by studying the masters →
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